[Eric] Hello and we're back with the Sony a7ii and the Sony 24-70 FE f/4 zoom lens. This lens quite frankly takes a lot of crap off people on the internet, on the boards, on reviews. Because one, it's $1200, and two in the early days it had some pretty bad copies. But my copy is ok. My copy is good. It's good enough. Let's say that. It's good enough.
Compared to Canon 24-70 f/4 lens, I like it because it is more compact. It's not as big. Those are things we like in mirrorless. But is it sharper than the Canon? No. It is sharper than the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 ii? No. But it's a lot smaller. I have Eye Autofocus. Eye AF with it. Facial recognition. Optical steady shot is built in as you have the little marking here on top of the lens. So, it does what I need it to do. But I do feel it is over priced. If you're looking for a zoom and you're looking for a 24-70, I think you should think real hard before you purchase a Sony version because it's just overpriced at $1200. If they come out with a F/2.8, how much is that going to cost? Well north of $2,000 I'm sure. And we will be sitting that one out.
So I going to give two photos here. I'm at 70mm. Back it out. 24mm and you all can judge for yourself what it looks like. I think at the end of the day for me it's a keeper because it's a 24-70. Very versatile for just walking around. If you're on vacation, it's in the day, not a big deal. You can get your wide angle and you can get... you can zoom in a little bit. Although I'd probably just prefer to carry like a prime for that. Like a Batis 25 or 16-35 f/4 is my favorite vacation lens. I wouldn't hesitate to take this on vacation and again, it's really over priced. I've probably talked a little too much about it as far as that goes.
But besides that those are the things you should know about. Has a good feel to it and it's not... doesn't feel too much heavier than say a... it actually feels a little bit heavier than the Batis 85. We will have to weight those and find out. There you go. There it is without the lens hood. There's the lens hood. Typically 24-70 lens hood. Nothing too special about it. So there you go. Are you going to buy it for the sharpness? No. Are you going to buy it for price? Absolutely not. Are you going to buy it for the versatility and to get to use all the great features built in to the Sony a7 series of cameras? Yes. That's the selling point. Let me know your thoughts below. Gotta a little long winded on that one I think.
[Producer] Three minutes and seven seconds!
[Eric] Really!? Yeah, that's pretty long winded.
[Producer] Yeah! Ha. Ha. Haaaaa.
Today I am reviewing the Sony 20mm 2.8 APS-C lens. It's a pancake lens for the crop body E mounts. So for your Sony a6300, Sony a6000, Sony a5100, and Sony a5000 I guess. You can see here it's really small. Lightweight, very portable. Absolutely my favorite lens that stays on this camera 99% of the time. Love it. Can't say enough about it. Image quality is... I would say spectacular. Some may disagree with that.
Has a nice little lens hood. It makes for a nice, convenient small package. We are going to put some photos up and show you some photos that we have taken with this lens. This lens is different. It's a prime lens. So it's a 20mm. That is a focal length equivalent of 35mm on full frame. It has a 1.5x multiplier. And what I will say about this lens, it's fast at 2.8, so it's fast enough. It could be a bit faster. But still, it's very light.
It is a little pricey at $348 USD. If I was going to pick one lens and one lens only for the Sony a6000, I would pick the 20mm 2.8 APS-C E mount lens. With out a doubt! Most versatile lens ever. This combination right here is pocketable. Especially in a winter jacket. It's not going to be pocketable in your blue jeans. Slide it in a purse. You can put a strap on it but it's so lightweight I don't bother with camera straps. It's a good travel lens. It's just a good all around lens. It's a good lens on the inside of a home. It's just a good lens.
If you have not thought about it and I don't see many people talking about it. The 20mm 2. .8 Sony APS-C E mount is a definite winner for the Sony a6000 and a5100. We'd appreciate if you subscribe below. Give us a thumbs up and most importantly your feedback regarding the 20mm 2.8 or your favorite lens that is a must have on the Sony a6000. I'd really like to know because I don't know of a smaller, lighter lens than this that has autofocus. Thanks and we'll see you next time.
I look at a Canon FD 200mm 2.8 lens and make sure the Aperture Control is working after purchasing this lens on EBay. The lens is around 40 years old but will have bring an affordable fast zoom to my Sony camera. I plan to adapt the lens to my Sony a7ii camera using a Fotodiox adapter.
I wanted to give a quick look on the new lens I just picked up. It’s a Canon FD 200mm 2.8 manual focus lens. We will be using manual focus for my purposes. The FD was introduced in the FD line in the1970’s so this lens is about 40 years old. This is really an FDN or FD new or the new FD and physically this should be silver I believe right in here. That’s the only physical difference. I think some have stated there is a little more plastic on these to make them lighter, although I have not seen any evidence to that so I don’t quite believe it. And some people have claimed there is a multi-coating on the lenses on the FDN, which we will call this FDN, as opposed to a single coating on the optics for the original FD.
So I guess going forward in the video I will refer to this as just a FD 200 2.8 as most people do. And I wanted to show you how to test the aperture feature real quick so you can make sure you get a lens that works. This will make your aperture work. You will see it in a minute. You can see how small it is. It’s set to 5.6 so it shouldn’t be that small. I moved it to 2.8 just then. Again, you can see moving the aperture ring is doing nothing. Now it’s on F32.
So what we’ve got to do is I’m going to get as much space here. Move the focus knob. You’ve got your red dot and up to the upper right of that dot you’ve got a little pin and this pin you just need to push down gently and just put a little pressure clockwise and keep that locked down. And then here there is another pin on this side and we gently push it down and we are going to try to…you gotta hold this one down. There we go. Once you get that middle barrel section rolling, you’re good to go. Now you can see instantly that it has opened up. So it goes wide open once that is locked. So it thinks it’s on the camera and everything on cameras are metered wide open. Even today. Modern DSLRs and mirrorless cameras. So, right there. So you do that test. Well, why is that so small? Well, it’s probably because I have it set on F32. So big F number, actually small opening. It’s because it’s a focal ratio. That’s wide open at 2.8. For some perspective, let’s go to F5.6. There ya go.
So you can see and we can take it down to F11. See, it gets smaller, and by the time you get to F32 that baby is a pinhole. There you have it and that’s how you tell that your Canon FD aperture control is working, so if you find one of these at a yard sale and want to know if it works, that’s how you tell. Now how do you get back to the state where it doesn’t think it’s mounted on the camera? This silver button right here, we are going to push it in and simply go back the other way. Again, once you get it started, you’re good to go. We are simply going to rotate until it clicks and we are good and you can see it has gone right back to there. So, I don’t know what exactly that F is, but it does look like F11 although we are set on F32. Well, maybe that is F32. I don’t really know and I don’t guess it matters.
We can replace the lens cap, rear lens cap, front lens cap. I will be testing this lens on my Sony a7 Mark ii in the coming days. Once I receive my FotoDiox Sony FD adapter. I absolutely can’t wait to get that in. I will have a link to the adapter below just in case and you can hunt down FD lenses on eBay. They are relatively inexpensive compared to their modern day counterparts, so if you wanted a 51.2 you could expect to pay somewhere between $500-$600 for a mint condition FD lens. You will need to make sure there is no haze, fungus, scratches on the optics, dust, stuff like that. On this one I just bought it sight unseen from a seller that had a 100% positive feedback. I paid $179 for this lens on ebay and I consider this a steal for a 200 2.8 FD lens. I look forward to doing the next video to where I actually adapt it to my Sony and do a review of the lens with some sample shots.
I asked about how the 560 TX fits in the Sony hot shoe. The fit is ok and when I tighten the the screw lock, it is snug as a bug. Still, it doesn't mean it is a good fit. I have a few photos below that show just how the fit is. The Yongnuo 560 TX in the photo is for Canon camera equipment. I use this in my Canon 5Diii if I need off camera flash. Notice that the two pins on the Yongnuo 560 TX don't make contact with the Sony hot shoe. Not a big deal but it may be relevant to those interested. I still recommend and use the Yongnuo 560 TX with my 560iii flashes on my Sony bodies and have no issues at all.
Have you ever wondered how waterfall photos look out of this world? Today you can learn how to perform this type of photography. I am at Rock Island State Park shooting a cascade with a Lee Filters 10 stop neutral density filter. I show you how I photograph a cascade, waterfall, or running water using long exposure and a neutral density filter.
Sony a7ii - http://amzn.to/1SVSAZe
Today we are at Rock Island State Park and we are going to shoot a cascade with long exposure using a neutral density filter and we are going to go through how we accomplish that. A few things you are going to need. A remote. This is a wireless remote that was $10 on Amazon. A camera that allows you to do manual focus, set your aperture shutter speed in ISO, and of course a neutral density filter. I always use a 10 stop neutral density filter. It’s a Lee filter. It’s called the Lee Big Stopper to be precise and I will leave a link to that below. The thing there is, you have to know what stop ND filter you’re using. So, it’s 10 stop, that’s 2 to the 10th power, which is 1,024. That’s going to be a multiplier we’ll use here in just a second.
You will need the Lee Filter Holder and Lee Filter Holder Adapter (specific to your lens thread) to go along with the Lee Big Stopper. You can watch this video for a visual guide to how the Lee Filter system filter system fits together closeup.
The first thing you’re gonna want to do is you’re gonna frame your shot and get it framed in the camera and I’ve done that. I’ve set my ISO to 50, my aperture to F11, so that I can get a great depth of field and not get too far out there and aperture priority told me that those two settings I needed a 30th of a second for a shutter speed. Now we are going to take that 30th of a second and multiply it by 1,024 and that gives you 34 seconds. So what we are going to do now is switch it over to bulb mode and we’ve got the ISO set up for 150th of a second, the aperture at F11, and now we are just going to use our remote and manually time 34 seconds.
Now your camera may have the ability to have a timer on it that shows. Mine does not. We are going to put the neutral density filter on being very careful not to adjust that focus. So, we’ve got manual focus if I didn’t mention it so you want to make sure your auto focus is turned off on your lens or if it’s handled inside your camera, turn it off on your camera, and you want to manually focus. This is very important because once this neutral density filter goes on your camera has a hard time seeing. Although in my view, most of the time, it will brighten it up if everything is correct.
So let’s go. Here we go. This was a 30 second shot so we got close. One thing to notice. You will have to be in bulb mode to go over the 30 second time exposure for most cameras. I’m fairly pleased with that. I’m not too displeased. What I want to do is take a look at the histogram and I have blown out the sky. The sky is too bright and the cascade where the white is too bright. So what I’m going to do is I’m gonna back it down because you cannot recover detail from blown out, from highlights that are blown out. So they’re too bright, they’re just solid white. So we are going to take down the exposure limit say to 25 seconds, well let’s knock it on down to 24 as it starts to rain. Let’s make it 20 seconds. Here we go. We’ve got our picture back. We’re still quite a bit blown out, although we’re exposing so we’re gonna do this again. We are going to take the shutter speed on down to 10 seconds and that’s part of this.
When you have bright clouds, bright puffy clouds like we do today, you’ve got cascades and really dark water, a lot of times when you set up that aperture priority to get that basic shutter speed, that base shutter speed as I call it, to do this then sometimes it’s off. And this is what you do. You just keep backing it down until you do not blow anything out. So there we go. Still blowing it out. It’s back to F11 and we are going to take that shutter speed on down a little further and review the photo. Its still got a little bit, but our histogram is crunching over to the left and I wish I could get a good view of that. We will get a picture of that for the video. We’re going to drop it down just a little more to 5 seconds.
Now in the meantime you want to be sure that your camera is level when you do your framing. That’s really aggravating. In long exposures, framing is pretty critical and you don't want to have to get back and rotate because then you’re gonna lose pixels and that’s just a big waste of time. So let’s see. Ok, now we’ve got the opposite problem, which is okay. We’ve got some spots that are too dark. Just some very small spots. Not too worried about it. And there you go. That’s how you do a long exposure with a 10 stop neutral density filter of a waterfall or cascade. I hope you enjoyed this.
The Billingham Hadley Small camera bag is a great bag for small mirrorless and rangefinder camera systems. The Billingham name is synonymous with function, quality, style, and durability among photographers. The Hadley Small is ideal for accessing your gear on the go when a back pack doesn’t make a lot of sense to carry.